THE 5 RINGS OF FASHION Chapter 1.18

The First Ring: Roots

CHRONICLES

Chapter 1.18

Russia

Department stores, with their grandeur and vast array of products, represent a fascinating chapter in the history of commerce. Their roots go back to the 19th century, when the first large commercial structures began to emerge in major European and Russian cities.

Before the Russian Revolution, the Tsarist Empire saw the birth of imposing commercial structures, such as the Gostiny Dvor. These complexes, originally created as trading hubs for merchants, evolved over time, adopting the characteristics of modern department stores.

The Gostiny Dvor in Moscow, located in the heart of the merchant district of Kitai-gorod, is a symbolic example of this evolution. Built of brick in the 16th century and later modified, it housed both shops and warehouses. In the 18th century, architect Giacomo Quarenghi transformed the structure into an elegant neoclassical shopping center, with countless Corinthian columns and arcades.

Another significant example is the Gostiny Dvor in St. Petersburg, designed by Bartolomeo Francesco Rastrelli and Jean-Baptiste Vallin de la Mothe. This imposing building, constructed between 1761 and 1785, occupies nearly an entire city block, with a façade more than a kilometer long. The main objective was to create a functional space for trade that met the needs of imperial Russia.

The Gostiny Dvor was based on the concept of a covered market but on a significantly larger scale than its European counterparts at the time. The core idea was to bring numerous shops together within a single architectural complex, providing shelter for both merchants and customers from St. Petersburg’s harsh weather. This innovative conception made it one of the earliest examples of an integrated shopping center, anticipating the evolution of modern department stores.

Although not directly derived from the model of the Galeries du Bois, the architecture of the Gostiny Dvor reflected a combination of European neoclassicism and practical functionality adapted to the local context. The complex occupied an entire city square, making it a monumental project without equivalent in France at the time.

Structures like the Gostiny Dvor in St. Petersburg and the Galeries du Bois in Paris were the forerunners of the department store concept. Although they were not yet “department stores” in the modern sense, they laid the groundwork for a new idea of organized, centralized commerce. This centralization is one of the fundamental elements of modern department stores.

Though rudimentary compared to 19th-century department stores, these structures placed the customer at the center, offering convenience, variety, and protection from the elements.

With the advent of communism, department stores were transformed into state institutions, with the aim of providing consumer goods to the population. However, the planned economy led to shortages, long queues, and variable product quality.

The GUM (Gosudarstvenny Universalny Magazin) in Moscow, located on Red Square, became symbols of the Soviet system, both for their grandeur and for their limitations. Before 1920, they were known as "Verkhnie torgovye ryady." Another important department store chain during the Soviet period was TsUM (Central’nyj Universal’nyj Magazin), also located in Moscow.

The collapse of the Soviet Union marked a turning point for the retail sector. Many state-owned department stores were privatized, and new international chains began to enter the markets of the former republics.

In Russia, Moscow and St. Petersburg became showcases of capitalism, with the arrival of luxury brands and the birth of modern shopping centers like "Atrium" and "Metropolis."

Other major cities, such as Ekaterinburg, Novosibirsk, and Kazan, followed a similar path, developing modern shopping malls such as "Mega" and "Galerija."

In the Baltic countries (Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania), thanks to EU membership, there was rapid integration with the Western market, becoming hubs for international chains like "Stockmann" and "Kaubamaja."

In Ukraine, Kyiv and other major cities saw the emergence of modern shopping centers such as "Ocean Plaza" and "Gulliver," though political instability and conflicts with Russia have slowed the sector’s development.

Kazakhstan, with its growing cities like Almaty and Astana (Nur-Sultan), attracted foreign investment and saw the birth of modern department stores like "Dostyk Plaza" and "Khan Shatyr."

In other countries of the region, such as Uzbekistan—where the "Chorsu Bazaar" in Tashkent, although a traditional market, has undergone transformations that bring it closer to the department store concept—Turkmenistan, Kyrgyzstan, and Tajikistan, development was slower and marked by significant challenges tied to economic and political factors. These countries faced particularly complex transitions after the Soviet collapse.

Economically, many of them were in a fragile state, with outdated infrastructure and limited resources to invest in commerce and urban development. The lack of foreign capital and difficulties in attracting investors slowed the growth of large commercial complexes and department stores. Moreover, the privatization process was often slow and inefficient, preventing rapid expansion of the retail sector.

Politically, government priorities were more focused on political control and managing natural resources rather than on developing the private sector, hindering access to international markets.

In recent years, signs of growth and modernization have appeared. The construction of new shopping centers and the expansion of regional and local brands reflect slow but steady progress. Increasing openness to tourism and improved economic relations with other countries are beginning to create opportunities for a more dynamic future.

Georgia and Azerbaijan, with their capitals Tbilisi and Baku, experienced retail sector growth thanks to investments in the energy sector and rising domestic demand, leading to the opening of shopping centers. In Azerbaijan, beyond "Park Bulvar" in Baku, the "Ganjlik Mall" developed as an example of a modern shopping center. In Georgia, "East Point Tbilisi" is a major commercial complex.

In Belarus, despite a more cautious approach to opening up to the Western market, local department stores such as TSUM Minsk, located at Nezavisimosti Avenue 54, emerged, offering a wide range of products from daily goods to fashion and souvenirs. Known for its style reminiscent of the Soviet era, it provides a unique experience for visitors. Another example is GUM Minsk, located at Nezavisimosti Avenue 21. GUM is Minsk’s first and largest department store, inaugurated in 1951. It is considered an architectural and historical monument, with offerings ranging from household items to fashion and souvenirs. The atmosphere recalls the Soviet past, making it a fascinating shopping destination.

The evolution of department stores in the former Soviet republics and the "-stan" countries is a mosaic of diverse stories, marked by complex economic and political transitions. While some cities have transformed into modern shopping capitals, others struggle to keep pace with global changes. Nevertheless, the retail sector continues to evolve, offering new opportunities and challenges for the future.

To be continued..