The First Ring: Roots
CHRONICLES
Chapter 1.7
England and Italy
We have already discussed Albion House in London, a key reference point for ready-made clothing. Its existing mural on the facade of its London headquarters declares: "The monster ready-made and bespoke clothing establishment." This place marked a significant milestone in the transition from made-to-measure tailoring to the mass production of ready-made clothes, prefiguring the concept of "prêt-à-porter."
We have also mentioned Liberty & Co., which was more than just a trading place; it was a genuine cultural and social hub, a promoter of the Art Nouveau style. Its famous fabrics had a profound influence on European fashion and supported craftsmanship, opposing what we can now define as the "massification of a style" rather than "luxury" due to the proliferation of single-brand stores.
In England, department stores have played a pivotal role in the development of luxury retail and in creating a cultural and recreational shopping experience.
Harrods (London, 1849): Founded by Charles Henry Harrod, Harrods is synonymous with luxury and variety. Located in the Knightsbridge area, the store is renowned for its exclusive shopping experience, offering a wide selection of the highest-quality products and impeccable customer service. Harrods is also a tourist icon, celebrated for its extraordinary architecture and annual events such as the January sales. The building has become a symbol of luxury consumerism and British tradition.
Selfridges (London, 1909): Founded by Harry Gordon Selfridge, this department store redefined the concept of shopping. By introducing elaborate window displays, hosting cultural events, and placing a strong emphasis on customer experience, Selfridges transformed the store into a space where art, fashion, and entertainment converge. The founder famously promoted the idea that “shopping should be a pleasurable and stimulating experience,” a principle that profoundly influenced modern retail.
Marks & Spencer (M&S): Established in 1884 in Leeds by Michael Marks, a Polish immigrant, and Thomas Spencer, M&S is one of the UK's most iconic retailers. Starting as a "Penny Bazaar," the company distinguished itself through transparency and affordability. In 1928, it introduced the "St. Michael" brand, synonymous with quality, initially offering only British-made products. In 1967, M&S revolutionized the food sector with the introduction of ready meals.
During the 1970s and 1980s, M&S became a symbol of the British middle class, with stores across the country. However, the company faced a crisis in the 1990s and 2000s due to growing competition, prompting a strategic repositioning. Today, with over 1,400 stores in 50 countries, M&S primarily focuses on the British market. Key divisions include M&S Food, renowned for its quality and innovation, and the Fashion and Home departments, which are now less dominant than in the past. Through its “Plan A” program, M&S aims to lead in sustainability, reaffirming its position as a pillar of British culture that skillfully blends tradition and innovation.
John Lewis: Established in 1864, this British chain is renowned for its focus on product quality and customer care. Its cooperative business model, which includes profit sharing among employees, is unique in the department store industry and highlights how innovation can extend beyond products to include management practices.
The landscape of department stores in Italy offers a fascinating journey through the history of commerce, architecture, and culture.
La Rinascente, a symbol of commercial innovation, was founded in 1877 by the Bocconi brothers, pioneers who introduced the concept of a department store inspired by contemporary French models. The first store, Aux Villes d’Italie, set new standards with fixed prices and a wide variety of products. In 1880, it evolved into Alle città d’Italia, drawing on Italy's rich cultural heritage. La Rinascente expanded its presence with iconic branches in Rome and Milan, becoming a landmark in Italian retail.
The acquisition by Senator Borletti in 1917 and the subsequent renaming to La Rinascente marked a significant new chapter for the brand. Its rapid recovery after a devastating fire in 1918 highlighted Borletti's resilience and entrepreneurial vision. La Rinascente not only revolutionized retail in Italy but also contributed to the country’s cultural and social transformation.
La Rinascente S.p.A. is now owned by Thailand's Central Group.
Another historical icon, Magazzini Mele, founded in 1889 in Naples, offered a unique shopping experience that turned fashion into a social phenomenon. Through a refined selection of products and innovative communication strategies, Magazzini Mele shaped the perception of Italian fashion, creating a cultural link between elegance and modernity.
Over the years, other entities such as Excelsior Milano and Coin have further enriched the Italian retail landscape. Excelsior, now part of the Coin group, represents the pinnacle of luxury retail, while Coin, established in 1926, has become a versatile and accessible brand, continuously innovating and introducing Italy’s first loyalty card. Coin's acquisition of Excelsior reflects a strategic effort to diversify and strengthen its position in the luxury market, demonstrating adaptability to global trends.
Another interesting story is that of UPIM, founded in Verona in 1928, initially under the name Unico Prezzo Italiano, which was later changed to Unico Prezzo Italiano Milano. Today, it is owned by OVS Spa. Originally a product brand of the Coin Group, OVS has become an independent company (OVS Spa) that owns several brands, including Upim and Stefanel.
In summary, Italian department stores have not only shaped retail but also influenced lifestyle and social dynamics, solidifying their role as cultural hubs and symbols of modernity.
To be continued...
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