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THE 5 RINGS OF FASHION Chapter 1.11

Writer's picture: Roberto CorbelliRoberto Corbelli

Updated: Feb 4


The First Ring: Roots

 

CHRONICLES

Chapter 1.11


Department stores in Asia have a rich and diverse history, emerging in various countries as part of the process of modernization and economic development. We will begin this story by starting with Japan.


Department stores, known in Japan as "depato" (デパート, short for "department store"), have played a pivotal role in the country's economic and cultural development. Their evolution reflects the adoption of Western models and their adaptation to the needs of Japanese society. For the Japanese, they represent much more than mere shopping venues: they are cultural and social institutions deeply rooted in the nation's daily life and history.

 

Depato offer a wide range of goods, including clothing, accessories, food products, household items, and cosmetics. These stores are typically organized into well-defined departments, creating a straightforward and orderly shopping experience. They epitomize the Japanese spirit of hospitality (omotenashi, おもてなし): the staff is renowned for their impeccable courtesy and attentive customer service. Additionally, depato are celebrated for their elegant gift packaging, often regarded as a true art form. The basement areas, known as depachika (デパ地下), are famous for their high-quality food markets, featuring gourmet products, traditional sweets (wagashi), ready-to-eat foods, and local specialties.

 

Many of these department stores are strategically located, often near major train stations, making them an integral part of the urban landscape and daily city life. In addition to selling products, they frequently host cultural events, art exhibitions, and regional fairs, serving as spaces for entertainment and cultural education.

 

Depato, especially the historic ones, are synonymous with luxury and quality. Many of their flagship locations feature international fashion brands and exclusive products. For the Japanese, these stores are not merely places of consumption but also symbols of modernity and prosperity. Since the Meiji era, they have served as a bridge between Japanese traditions and Western influences, continually evolving alongside the country’s social and economic transformations.

 

Historically, the first modern-style department store in Japan was Mitsukoshi, officially founded in 1904. However, its origins trace back to 1673, during the Edo period, when it operated as Echigoya, a kimono fabric shop. Founded by Mitsui Takatoshi, Echigoya was distinguished by its innovative, customer-focused approach, laying the groundwork for Mitsukoshi’s future success.


Echigoya revolutionized retail by abandoning the traditional make-to-order system, where merchants delivered goods directly to customers’ homes. Instead, it introduced an in-store sales model, allowing customers to browse and select products on-site. This approach made shopping more accessible and convenient, attracting a wide customer base.

 

Another groundbreaking innovation was the introduction of fixed pricing, which replaced the practice of bartering. This ensured transparency and fairness, treating all customers equally, regardless of their social status or negotiation skills.

 

In 1904, under the leadership of the Mitsui family, Echigoya was transformed into a department store and renamed Mitsukoshi, combining the characters of the family name "Mitsui" (三井) and the original store name "Koshi" (越後屋). Inspired by European department stores, Mitsukoshi brought cutting-edge concepts to Japan, offering a wide range of products under one roof, from traditional kimono fabrics to luxury goods and everyday items.

 

The new Nihombashi building, completed in 1914, was an architectural masterpiece inspired by Western styles. With its spacious interiors, modern lighting, and refined decorative details, it provided a unique shopping experience for its time.

 

Mitsukoshi also introduced innovative services, such as restaurants, beauty salons, and elevators, enhancing convenience for shoppers. The staff were renowned for their courteous and highly professional service, while return and exchange policies, coupled with quality guarantees, set new benchmarks in the retail industry. These policies were among the first to prioritize customer satisfaction, laying the foundation for the modern concept of "customer care."

 

More than just a shopping destination, Mitsukoshi served as a cultural hub, hosting art exhibitions, traditional events, and performances, fostering a strong connection with the local community. Its pioneering model profoundly influenced subsequent department stores, such as Isetan, Takashimaya, and Daimaru, revolutionizing Japan’s retail landscape. Furthermore, Mitsukoshi played a role in democratizing consumption, making quality goods accessible to a broader audience.

 

Today, Mitsukoshi is part of the Isetan Mitsukoshi Holdings group, one of the largest and most prestigious department store chains in Japan. Its headquarters in Nihombashi remains a historical and cultural landmark, while its branches in Japan and abroad continue to embody a brand synonymous with luxury and tradition.

 

Isetan, another iconic Japanese department store chain, was founded in 1886 in Tokyo as a boutique specializing in kimonos. Over the decades, the company expanded its offerings to include international brands, catering to the needs of a young and dynamic clientele.


Isetan’s flagship store, located in Tokyo’s Shinjuku district, is regarded as one of the most prestigious and influential department stores in Japan. It features a diverse selection of products, ranging from cosmetics to women’s clothing, as well as dedicated floors for food and beverages. Its basement levels house the renowned "depachika," a high-end food market offering traditional Japanese delicacies and sweets.


In 2008, Isetan merged with another prominent department store chain, Mitsukoshi, to form Isetan Mitsukoshi Holdings Ltd. This merger strengthened the group’s presence both domestically and internationally, with numerous locations across Japan and Southeast Asia.


Despite the economic challenges of recent years, the holding company has continued to focus on strategic collaborations, particularly with "Made in Italy" products, to drive sales. Italian craftsmanship and design are highly valued in the Japanese market and play a key role in attracting local customers.


Today, Isetan Mitsukoshi stands as a symbol of luxury and innovation in the Japanese retail sector, consistently demonstrating its ability to adapt to the evolving needs of a diverse and ever-changing customer base.

 

Takashimaya is one of Japan's oldest and most prestigious department store chains, with roots dating back to 1831. Founded in Kyoto by Shinshichi Iida, the company began as a small shop specializing in the sale of gofuku, or formal kimono. Despite the turbulence and profound changes in Japan’s history, the Iida family’s dedication and entrepreneurial vision have enabled the company to gradually expand, earning widespread recognition among customers.

In 1876, Takashimaya began engaging in export activities, establishing offices in Paris and London by 1903, along with an export office in Yokohama. This international expansion strategy helped promote Japanese craftsmanship on a global scale, solidifying the brand's reputation abroad. During the 1930s, the company further cemented its position in the department store industry with the opening of prestigious locations in Osaka (1932) and Nihonbashi, Tokyo (1933). These stores, featuring modern and innovative architectural designs, positioned Takashimaya as one of Japan’s leading department stores.

In 1969, Takashimaya took a groundbreaking step in modernizing Japanese retail by opening the first American-style shopping mall at Futako-Tamagawa Station, southwest of Tokyo. Since then, the company has continued to expand its global presence, establishing branches in Shanghai, Singapore, Bangkok, and Ho Chi Minh City, thereby strengthening its foothold in international markets.

Today, Takashimaya remains a cornerstone of the Japanese retail landscape, seamlessly blending tradition and innovation to deliver a unique and high-quality shopping experience to its customers.

 

DaimaruDaimaru is a historic chain of Japanese department stores, with origins dating back to 1717. Shimomura Hikoemon Masahiro founded a dry goods store (primarily focused on fabrics) called Dai-Monjiya in Kyoto. In 1728, the company opened a second store in Nagoya, named Daimaruya, which eventually inspired the chain's current name. Over the centuries, Daimaru consolidated its presence in Japan, including the establishment of the Shinsaibashi store in Osaka, originally founded in 1726 under the name Matsuya and later renamed Daimaru. A significant milestone in its expansion occurred in 1927 with the opening of the Kobe department store, located in the prestigious Kyukyoryuchi-Daimarumae district.

In the 1960s, Daimaru began its international expansion, opening branches in Hong Kong (1960) and Singapore (1983). In 1991, the brand entered Australia with a store in the Melbourne Central complex. However, due to financial challenges, operations in Australia were discontinued in 2002.

In 2007, Daimaru expanded its presence in Tokyo by opening a department store in the Marunouchi district, adjacent to Tokyo Station. This store, specializing in luxury products, has become a premier shopping destination in the capital.

In 2010, Daimaru merged with another historic department store chain, Matsuzakaya, to form Daimaru Matsuzakaya Department Stores Co., Ltd., a subsidiary of J. Front Retailing. This merger solidified the brand’s position within Japan's retail sector.

Today, Daimaru operates in several major cities, including Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe, Sapporo, and Tokyo, maintaining its role as a benchmark in the department store industry. By combining tradition and innovation, Daimaru continues to cater to the needs of a diverse customer base.

 

Besides Isetan, Daimaru, Mitsukoshi, and Takashimaya, which are among the most well-known department stores in Japan, there are other popular chains and large retail stores. Here are some of the main ones:

Sogo (そごう): One of the most important department store chains in Japan, with a long history. Today, it is a subsidiary of Seven & I Holdings, the same group that owns 7-Eleven.

Marui (丸井), also known as OIOI (マルイ), is a chain of department stores that caters primarily to young people, offering fashion, accessories, and other trendy product categories.

Lumine (ルミネ) is another popular chain, with branches mainly in the Tokyo area and other major cities in Japan. It is known for its youthful fashion and product offerings targeted toward a young, trendy audience.

Tokyu (東急) is a large transportation and retail company that operates numerous department stores, particularly in the Tokyo area and its surrounding regions. Its offerings include fashion, food, and household goods.

Seibu (西武) is another prominent Japanese department store chain, part of the Saison group. Its stores are widespread and offer a broad range of products, from fashion to food.

Kintetsu (近鉄) is a railway company that also operates a large network of department stores, primarily in the Osaka and Nara areas.

Hanshin (阪神) Department Store is known for its branches in the Umeda district of Osaka. In addition to fashion, Hanshin is highly regarded for its selection of gourmet products and gift items.

JR Takashimaya (JR高島屋) is a division of the famous Takashimaya chain, but it focuses more on locations adjacent to JR train stations, offering a wide selection of high-end products.

Aeon (イオン) is one of the leading retail chains in Japan, offering a wide range of products, including clothing, electronics, and home goods. While it may not be considered a fashion icon, Aeon provides accessible clothing at competitive prices, collaborating with various brands and creating its own lines, particularly for a young and family-oriented clientele.

 

Japanese department stores have had a significant impact on the development of global fashion commerce, not only in Japan but also internationally. Their contribution can be analyzed from various perspectives:

Spread of Luxury Brands: Japanese department stores were among the first to introduce Western luxury brands to the Asian market, which had a strong impact on the globalization of fashion.

 

Japanese department stores have significantly influenced global fashion commerce, both within Japan and internationally. They were pioneers in introducing Western luxury brands to Asia, aiding the globalization of fashion. Their sophisticated approach to shopping, (The "service-oriented retail" model) emphasizing impeccable customer service, has shaped global consumer culture. Key contributions include the concept of "luxury shopping" as a sensory experience and a focus on detailed, visually appealing product presentation, which has become central to global fashion commerce.


To be continued..

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