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THE 5 RINGS OF FASHION Chapter 1.6

Writer's picture: Roberto CorbelliRoberto Corbelli



The First Ring: Roots


CHRONICLES


Chapter 1.6


Let's begin a more specific journey by analyzing countries where department stores have played, and continue to play, a significant role. We'll start with Europe.


France

Le Bon Marché, (Au Bon Marché) established in 1838 as a small fabric store by Paul and Justin Videau, was transformed into the world’s first true department store in 1852 by Aristide and Marguerite Boucicaut. Their vision revolutionized retail, placing the consumer at the heart of the shopping experience.


The Boucicauts reimagined the concept of retail space, moving away from the confines of small boutiques to create an expansive, welcoming environment where customers could feel comfortable and enjoy their time. Spacious layouts and a vast array of merchandise redefined the act of shopping, turning it into an experience rather than just a transaction.


Le Bon Marché became an emotional space, where lights, sounds, colors, and scents combined to create a unique and inviting atmosphere. The Boucicauts introduced innovative features such as cafes, nurseries, and reading areas, alongside beautifully arranged shelves and artistic displays. They also pioneered the use of shop windows, transforming them into theatrical showcases designed to captivate passersby.

On a functional level, they introduced several customer-centric innovations:

  • Fixed pricing and end-of-season sales, ensuring transparency.

  • An expanded assortment of nearly every product imaginable.

  • Flexible policies, including returns and mail-order sales, which allowed the store to reach customers beyond the city through catalogs replicating the store’s ambiance on the page.


The store’s architecture, merged commerce and art, offering a luxurious yet welcoming environment. This model set the standard for department stores worldwide, promoting the idea of shopping as a holistic experience.

The Boucicauts were also pioneers in improving social conditions for their employees, offering housing, healthcare, and other benefits. Their progressive vision extended beyond retail, influencing broader social and cultural trends.

Thanks to its success, Le Bon Marché underwent significant expansions, with architect Louis-Charles Boileau and engineer Gustave Eiffel contributing to its iconic metal-and-glass structure.

Still located on the Rive Gauche in Paris, Le Bon Marché is now part of the LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) group and specializes in luxury products, fashion, design, and gastronomy. It remains a Parisian icon and a benchmark for high-end shopping.

 

Printemps, inaugurated on November 3, 1865, by Jules Jaluzot and his wife Augustine in Paris, quickly established itself as a symbol of elegance and innovation. Located at the corner of Boulevard Haussmann and Rue du Havre, the store specialized in fashion items and fabrics, introducing seasonal discounts and large-scale advertising to make shopping more accessible and dynamic.


A pioneer in adopting modern technologies, Printemps was among the first commercial buildings in Paris to install electric lighting, which illuminated spectacular evening window displays to attract customers. The introduction of elevators further enhanced visitor accessibility and comfort.


After a devastating fire in 1881, the building was rebuilt with a steel and glass structure, making it an iconic example of the era’s architecture.

Its elaborate window displays, especially during the Christmas season, became a major attraction for Parisians and tourists. In the 1920s and 1930s, Printemps collaborated with renowned designers to offer exclusive collections, consolidating its reputation as a benchmark for high-quality fashion.


Today, Printemps stands as a symbol of Parisian elegance and a tourist destination, thanks to its historic architecture, artistic displays, and a panoramic terrace offering a unique view of the city.


Galeries Lafayette was officially established in 1893 when Théophile Bader and Alphonse Kahn opened a haberdashery at 1 Rue La Fayette in Paris. This marked the first step toward creating the iconic department store, later located on Boulevard Haussmann and inaugurated in 1912 in the Art Nouveau style. The building features the famous glass and iron dome designed by Ferdinand Chanut and adorned with stained glass by Jacques Grüber.


By introducing elegant, open spaces to showcase products, Galeries Lafayette transformed shopping into an aesthetic and social experience, offering a diverse range of items: fashion, accessories, furniture, jewelry, and luxury products at accessible prices. It quickly became a symbol of luxury and modernity, frequented by Parisians and international tourists.


Still operating from its historic headquarters on Boulevard Haussmann, considered one of Paris’s main tourist attractions, the brand is now part of the Galeries Lafayette Group, which encompasses other brands and chains. The business model has diversified with initiatives like the Lafayette Anticipations concept store, dedicated to art and design, and the development of an online marketplace. Galeries Lafayette remains one of the most iconic and influential destinations in the global luxury retail landscape.


La Samaritaine, founded in 1870 by Ernest Cognacq and his wife Marie-Louise Jaÿ, began as a small boutique near the Pont Neuf, in the heart of Paris. The store’s name comes from a decorative hydraulic pump located on the bridge. With its initial success, the boutique rapidly expanded, transforming into one of the city’s first department stores.


Cognacq adopted innovative strategies, such as displaying prices on products and introducing discounts, making shopping accessible to a broader audience. Over time, the building was expanded in the Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles, with facades and interiors designed by prominent architects like Frantz Jourdain and Henri Sauvage.

During the 20th century,


La Samaritaine gradually lost its prestige due to increasing competition and was closed in 2005 due to structural safety concerns. After an ambitious restoration project led by the LVMH Group, the department store reopened in 2021.


The revamped Samaritaine combines luxury and fashion with contemporary design, featuring shops, restaurants, and a high-end hotel. Today, La Samaritaine is an exclusive destination blending high-level shopping, gastronomic experiences, and spectacular architecture, continuing to serve as a symbol of elegance and innovation in the Parisian landscape.

 

To be continued...

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